Curiosity's '98 Trans Am mods page
Click on pictures for a larger view.
The easy work for the LCD (Dremel, ABS, Bondo, Sand, Paint, Sand, Paint, Sand, Paint, Sand, Paint...)
|First fab design (Dec 03)||Rustolium black texture, airbrush mixed over it.||Place Lilliput in bezel||3rd rev. Feb 07|
D945GSEJT w/Morex Case (Apr '10) Windows 7
All USB ports used 4+1+(2x4)
|The $1 PS2 touchpad ashtray (Old)||
(New) EasyCat 2 button
(Actually pops out)
|The epoxy shelf. Use Scotch tape when epoxying||Back of case for button levers.|
|Front shot||Passenger shot||Old Colors||The case and power supply|
|Dash cam||Rear cam||Nose cam|
|PC Remote||DLink DWA-160||DC-DC-PSU||USGlobalSat BU-353||Cheap ELM327||Logitech QuckCam For Notebooks Pro|
|The Valetine1 with GPS K/X tracking
The speakers and subs...
High/Mid 4ch Amp: HF Eagle (fits Delco 8ch space!)
Front: Infinity Kappa 605cs + Kappa 10.5T Tweeters
Rear: Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates
Subs: RFP4406 Amp: USX2100 (sits on the spare tire)
|LED Replacements for 98 TransAm|
http://www.autolumination.com (the best LEDs)
is getting much better now.
(Just stay away from the normal non-SMT LEDs - waste of money)
|HVAC||White #74 3-LED x 2 (due to multiple colors) same as below|
|Shift panel||Red #74 3-LED x1 (A little too bright Link or Link)|
|Doors||Red #74 (2)|
|Side markers||194 9 LED SMT Tower II (2 amber, 2 red) [Lower right in picture ->]|
|Glove box||194 5-LED Matrix (1 white) or SMT Tower|
|License plate||194 Inverted (1 white) or maybe SMT Tower (it's very cramped)|
|DRL/Front signals||3157 30 LED SMT Tower
(Amber x 2) [Left in picture]
(BETTER: new 48 LED replaces all 30 LED)
|Brake/Signal/Tail||3157 30 LED SMT Tower (Red x 4) [Left in picture]|
|Reverse||3156 30 LED SMT Tower (SuperWhite x 2) [Left in picture]|
|Outer tail||194 25 LED SMT Tower II or 921 18 LED (Red x 2) [Top right in piture]|
|3rd brake light||194 25 LED SMT Tower II (Red x 2) [Top right] + 50ohm 10W resistor in parallel|
|Instrument cluster||194 9 LED SMT Tower II 5xRed 2xGreen(Turn) 1xWhite(Speedo)|
Reason for using red behind a red lens: Although
white may be brighter, around 70% of the spectrum is filtered by the
red lens while
the full light of a red LED will pass through easily giving you 3x the
brightness over white.
DRL: 4.0A now: 270mA
Night: 7.75A now: 585mA
Brake+DRL: 13.6A now: 896mA
Brake@night: 17.3A now: 1070mA
The resistor on the 3rd brake light is required to
keep cruise control operating and to keep it from glowing from the low power
running through it all the time.
DRLs: To fix the older super-flux LEDs that short over to the parking lights, lift the wedge base leads, cut them shorter and bend back down. Just make sure they don't cross over to the other side.
UPDATE: The brake lights can have the same problem! Hit the brakes and all the parking lights and interior lights will go on!
The SMT type are harder. As you can see in the
diagram, there's just a resistor between the 2 circuits. Poor design? Bend all the
leads straight and crack the wedge base glue loose and slide it off the leads. Desolder the diode from the negative side and replace with wire (a lead from
diode or resistor works nicely) so that it's the original length, then clip the
end of the resistor on the low positive side and solder the diode to it in
series and reuse the clipped lead to extend the diode free end back out. Bend it
up so it will fit back together. This keeps the high
side from allowing power to go back out the reduced side (parking lights).
This also helps to reduce the low brightness so you can see the difference
between brakes/blinkers and parking lights.
A silent adjustable rate flasher
The OEM bimetallic thermal flasher is designed for a
high load so it won't work anymore. An electronic/capacitive discharge flasher (EL12 from AutoZone) eliminates the load requirements (load resistors)
will be a bit slow (~15 per minute). After a year, my modded EL12 melted so I looked
around and had all the parts in the schematic below. I gutted the EL12 and
stuck this little perfboard in it and ran a small ground wire out the top.
Any P-Channel MOSFET should work fine. Just test the connectors on the car
to make sure 12V is going to your source side. 20K pots give you a decent
range. Centered is a little faster than normal, and I prefer a slightly
faster off duty. The top is off time, and bottom is on time.
| Yet another flasher.
Up to 16 different effects. Blinking, strobing, etc. The internal LED is only used for testing. A cheaper 5V reg. can be used, and the MOSFET just needs to be one that can handle your amps.
Each button press changes the pattern.
|BCM wire colors for aftermarket alarm|
|32 pin connector|
|Brown (pin 1)||Parking lights (for blinking)|
|Orange/black||Hatch pin (-) Negative detect. Use a diode.|
|Brown (4th from right)||Hatch release (+)|
|Gray/black||Door pin (-)|
|Black/white||Door pin (-)|
|White/black||Possibly VATS (just use the ones by the steering column)|
|6 pin heavy gauge wires|
|Blue||Delayed accessory (don't use)|
|6 pin smaller gauge connector|
|Orange/black||Lock (-)|Getting around the BCM
and turning on courtesy lights like the
factory alarm at
the same time.
Hookup for window roll up/down control
How to trigger the alarm when battery is disconnected.
Must be used with tank or backup battery and needs
a negative output when alarm is armed, otherwise
just ground will work but consumes power always.
|CuriousTech Super smooth locks||
||Polished stainless steel from EmblemPros.|
|Wolo AirSplitter + 23 PSI pump on the stock horn mount. The pump should be facing the opposite direction. Water can get in the motor if the black end is up.|
|Increase your visibility x2!|
|The ashtray spring. LOL People have trouble putting this back on.|